India - New Air Service Connects Kanha & Bandhavgarh NP’s
3. October 2008
wildlife_worldwide
Good news! Wildlife Worldwide has slashed the transfer time on its popular 16-day Tiger Tiger safari by utilising a brand new air service (commencing 15th November 08) connecting two of India’s most famous tiger hotspots, Kanha and Bandhavgarh national parks. Tours depart London daily, November to May 09.
Wildlife Worldwide visits 3 national parks on this tour: Pench - the inspiration for Rudyard Kipling’s Jungle Book, Kanha – the daddy of India’s tiger reserves and Bandhavgarh – home to the world’s highest density of big cats. Named after the nearby river, Pench was declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1983 and it covers some 760 km². Cheetal, Sambar and Nilgai are common sightings, Gaur, Sloth Bears and Dhole (Indian Wild Dog) are frequently seen, but the park is most famous for Tigers. Situated in central India in the Satpura Hill ranges, Kanha is next, offering without doubt, India’s finest Tiger-viewing. Explore the grasslands and deciduous forests during Elephant-back and jeep safaris, with likely sightings of Barasingha, Chital, Muntjac, Sambar, Common Langur, and Rhesus Monkeys, Asiatic Jackal, three of India’s four lowland antelopes (Nilgai, Four-horned Antelope and Blackbuck), and occasionally Leopard, Gaur, Sloth Bear, Wolf and Dhole. Bird species present include Painted Partridge, Shaheen Falcon, Golden Oriole and the omnipresent Red Jungle Fowl. From Kanha, Wildlife Worldwide heads for Bandhavgarh, taking advantage of the new air service which replaces a lengthy and rather bumpy 5-hour road transfer with much more stylish and comfortable travel aboard a 4-seater twin engine aircraft (flight time around 55-minutes). Mammals in Bandhavgarh include Muntjac, Nilgai, Chinkara, Chowsingha, Wild Boar and of course Tiger. Over 275 bird species can also be found including hornbills, orioles, parakeets, peacocks and eagles. Guests are accommodated throughout in a selection of beautifully appointed luxury safari lodges. The holiday also includes sightseeing in Delhi, plus a tour of Agra and the Taj Mahal.
The holiday costs from £3,395 p/p including international flights, new light aircraft service, transfers, hotel and lodge accommodation, most meals and guided activities.
Wildlife Worldwide
0845 130 6982
sales@wildlifeworldwide.com
www.wildlifeworldwide.com
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Zambia’s ‘Green Season’ Luangwa Valley
25. September 2008
wildlife_worldwide
A jaundiced foam leopard called Zakumi, complete with green wig (camouflage against the green of the football pitch…), plenty of attitude and his own biography, has been unveiled as the mascot for South Africa’s 2010 World Cup. From ‘football season’ to ‘green season’ and the opportunity to see wig-free, non-footballing Leopards in the wild, Wildlife Worldwide offers a programme of 7-night Rivers & Rainbows of Luangwa safaris. Tours are based at Kapani Lodge and the new Kakuli Camp in South Luangwa NP, site of Africa’s highest naturally occurring Leopard population. Safaris depart London from 19th January to 31st March 2009.
The ‘green season’ between mid-January and early April, is a spectacular time of the year to visit the Luangwa Valley. Colourful flowering plants bloom, spectacular sunsets and dramatic electrical storms light up the night sky, migrant birds arrive to breed, big cats are easily viewed and the clearer air allows for great photography. In the 1950s, the late Norman Carr pioneered the concept of walking safaris in the Zambian bush and built the exclusive Kapani Lodge (meaning ‘place of mopane trees’) in the Luangwa Valley. Spend 3-nights at Kapani, exploring the central Mfuwe section of the South Luangwa NP during walking safaris, morning and afternoon game drives and night-time safaris with spotlights. Other than Leopards, 60 other resident mammal species recorded include Lion, Elephant, Giraffe, Hippo, Cookson’s Wildebeest and Nile Crocodile, together with an array of over 420 birds, including some of southern Africa’s most colourful species. Later, travel up the Luangwa River to remote Kakuli Camp at its confluence with the Luwi River. Here, incredible boating experiences from the river into the lagoon systems allow for further game viewing activities. Return to Kapani Lodge for a final night before homeward flights.
Safaris cost from £2,795 p/p including scheduled international flights via Johannesburg (South African Airways), transfers, 4-nights at Kapani Lodge and 3-nights Kakuli Camp, with all meals and expertly guided game viewing activities.
Wildlife Worldwide
0845 130 6982
sales@wildlifeworldwide.com
www.wildlifeworldwide.com
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Galapagos 2009
4. September 2008
wildlife_worldwide
Few academic texts have had such profound and enduring resonance as Charles Darwin’s Origin of Species, published in November 1859. Initially ridiculed by his peers and damned by religious figures, Darwin’s theory of evolution through natural selection now lies at the heart of modern understanding of the natural word. However, almost 200 years since Darwin’s birth, the teaching of evolution is still challenged by reactionary religious figures preferring a creationist worldview. In advance of Darwin’s Bicentennial, Wildlife Worldwide is offering 18-day holidays featuring expertly guided wildlife cruises of the Galapagos, including many islands visited by Darwin during his remarkable 1835 voyage aboard HMS Beagle. Departing Heathrow 26th September, 3rd, 10th & 17th October 2008 together with other dates in 2009.
After time on the Ecuadorian mainland travellers join the 24-cabin yacht La Pinta and ply a course through the 13 major islands, 6 minor islands, and 42 islets that make up the Galápagos archipelago. Travellers may observe giant Galápagos Tortoise, colourful Land Iguana and large groups of sea-faring Marine Iguana. However, it is the bird colonies that are most conspicuous, with Red, and Blue-footed Booby, Galápagos Hawk, Flightless Cormorant and even a Galápagos Penguin. The nutrient-rich waters surrounding the islands also form an integral part of the national park, and dolphins, turtles and whales may be observed from the boat, as well as large numbers of feeding seabirds. Further highlights include; the sunken volcanic crater of the Devil’s Crown, Santa Cruz – for the Charles Darwin Research Centre and the Giant Tortoise Breeding Centre, and Fernandina – the youngest island of the archipelago.
Tours cost from £4,395 p/p including scheduled flights, hotel and shipboard accommodation, transfers, mainland tours, most meals (all on cruise), expert naturalist guiding, lecture programme aboard La Pinta.
Wildlife Worldwide
0845 130 6982
sales@wildlifeworldwide.com
www.wildlifeworldwide.com
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Zambia - Bat Safari
29. August 2008
wildlife_worldwide
They may be environmentally friendly, but a new study reveals that wind farms are proving deadly to bats because changes in air pressure can cause fatal internal injuries. Thankfully for bats, Zambia is reassuringly wind farm-free! Join Wildlife Worldwide on a 7-night bat safari, specially timed to coincide with Zambia’s spectacular bat migration – an ecological phenomenon, departing London 21st November 08.
Every year at the end of October thousands of Straw-coloured Fruit Bats congregate in the trees of the Mushitu swamp forest near the confluence of the Musola and Kasanka rivers in Kasanka National Park. The bats come to feed for just six short weeks, gorging on the abundance of seasonal fruit and by mid November their numbers reach into the millions. To see the bats dispersing at dusk against the setting sun is one of Africa’s wildlife wonders and one that definitely shouldn’t be missed. Apart from bats, Kasanka is at its most beautiful during this time. The forest comes alive with migratory birds and wild flowers, and morning sightings of the rare Sitatunga are guaranteed from the sixty foot high Fibwe Hide. There is also an opportunity to visit the Bangweulu Swamps, a vast watery wilderness best known as the place where Livingstone died in 1873, and as the habitat for the increasingly rare Shoebill, an unusual stork-like bird, now considered to be a distant relative of the pelican. After witnessing the marvels of central Zambia, a light aircraft transfer whisks guests off to Nkwali Camp to experience the miracles of wildlife-rich South Luangwa National Park in the ‘green’ season.
The safari costs from £2,850 p/p including scheduled flights, all transfers, safari lodge accommodation, all meals, national park fees and expert wildlife guiding.
Wildlife Worldwide
0845 130 6982
sales@wildlifeworldwide.com
www.wildlifeworldwide.com
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An Alternative Winner - Costa Rican Self-drive
21. August 2008
wildlife_worldwide
With the 2008 Olympics drawing to a grand finale, it seems that Team Costa Rica won’t be returning with extra golden hand luggage – but with a host of record-breaking highlights and top-of-the-league performances back home, why should they worry? Observe an alternative winning combination in the world’s most bio-diverse nation, where 25% of the country’s land is protected - the world’s highest proportion, home to some of the world’s largest (Goliath Beetle) and smallest (Fairyfly) insects, the world’s third-largest feline (Jaguar), the world’s most poisonous frog (Blue Poison Arrow Frog), and site of one of the world’s most active volcanoes (Arenal). Wildlife Worldwide offer a 13-day Costa Rican Odyssey tour, going for gold amongst lush rainforests, active volcanoes and unique wildlife, including nesting Atlantic Green Turtles throughout September - departing London daily!
An initial night is spent at San Gildar Hotel located in an historic and picturesque area of San Jose. Next day, travellers are driven to Braulio Carrillo National Park where the Aerial Tram offers a different perspective on to the expanse of rainforest below, home to over 340 bird species, together with Howler and White-faced Monkeys, Tapir, Jaguar, Puma, Ocelot and Paca. Continuing by road and boat to Tortuguero National Park, 2-nights are spent exploring the vast area of untouched tropical rainforest on foot and by boat. Between July and September, night tours allow for observation of nesting Atlantic Green Turtle. Next, after collecting their 4WD, travellers head to Arenal National Park and one of the world’s most active volcanoes. On a clear night, observe magnificent views of Arenal Volcano from the hotel – with possible explosions and flowing lava. Continue to the protected Monteverde Cloud Forest, a reserve of some 4,500 hectares. Here, the Resplendent Quetzal, sacred bird of the Mayans, considered by many to be the most beautiful bird in the world, may be seen, together with Emerald Toucanet and both White-faced, and Howler Monkeys. Drive onwards to the Pacific Coast and the Gulf of Nicoya where guided birding tours amongst tropical dry forest and seasonal marshes provide excellent opportunities to see vast concentrations of heron, duck and spoonbill gathering during the dry season. Return to San Jose to drop off the jeep, spending a night at the San Gildar Hotel before homeward flights next day.
The tour costs from £1,595 p/p including scheduled flights, private transfers, lodge and hotel accommodation, most meals, 4WD vehicle hire (days 5 to 11) and expert wildlife guiding.
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Spot On Value - Leopards Of Luangwa
15. August 2008
wildlife_worldwide
For a limited period tailor-made natural history specialist Wildlife Worldwide is offering savings of at least £355 p/p on its 12-day Leopards of Luangwa tour, centred around Kapani Lodge, former home of Zambia’s father of conservation, Norman Carr, and its satellite bush camps, Luwi, Nsolo and Kakuli, departing Heathrow throughout September and October 2008.
The holiday is based in the 9,050 square kilometres of Zambia’s renowned South Luangwa National Park and guests are accommodated for three nights at Kapani Lodge, once home of Zambia’s most famous conservationist, the late Norman Carr. A further two nights is spent at each of Kapani’s satellite bush camps, Luwi, Nsolo, and Kakuli. Kapani’s bush camp experience is particularly unique as each camp is located in a different habitat - the broad banks of the Luangwa River, the edge of open grassland or mopane woodland close to a waterhole – thus offering diverse game viewing opportunities. Included activities feature walking safaris with expert naturalist guides – something for which the Luangwa is renowned, morning and afternoon game drives and night-time safaris with spotlights. Luangwa Valley is rich in wildlife, but in particular is the site of Africa’s highest naturally occuring Leopard population. Of 60 other resident mammal species recorded, Lion, Elephant, Giraffe, Hippo, Cookson’s Wildebeest and Nile Crocodile feature high on the list together with an exciting array of over 420 birds including some of southern Africa’s most colourful species. Complete the holiday with a relaxing night at Pioneer Camp, near Lusaka, a great conclusion to a Zambian wildlife adventure.
The holiday now costs from £3,095 p/p (normally £3,450 p/p) including scheduled international and regional flights, lodge or bush-camp accommodation with all meals and drinks, expertly guided game viewing, transfers and all National Park entry fees.
Wildlife Worldwide
0845 130 6982
sales@wildlifeworldwide.com
www.wildlifeworldwide.com
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Do People really Holiday in Senegal You bet they do !
13. August 2008
Destination Editor
When I was asked where do I want to go to write a story, the first thought in my head was Africa.So where in Africa haven’t I been? West Africa - and the first name to leap into my head, was Senegal.
Senegal? Do people really go travelling to Senegal? You bet ya - not that I knew too much beyond Dakar being the capital, and Patrick Vieira and Baaba Maal being it’s most famous sons! It turns out that it’s one of the richest countries in Africa, has a vibrant and bustling capital city, a stable economy, fascinating history, stunning scenery, great footballers, and is the most westerly point of the whole of the continent! It sounded like a holiday and an adventure in one neat package. Our plan was to stay one night in the north near the border with Mauritania, in the old colonial capital of St Laurent, a little piece of France in Africa and where the former rulers had fashioned the city in their own style. The plan also allowed for a further two nights sampling the delights of Dakar - a major international city, with a vibrant music scene, amazing markets and wide boulevards – and the last three nights at Les Paletuviers, an ecological retreat in the mangrove swamps on the Gambia River delta, way down by the Gambian border.
This is the story of how it didn’t take place that way!
Friday – March 19
Eventually after hours of toing and froing, and packing of bags, my identical twin brother Kevin and I mosey on down to Heathrow to catch our TAP flight via Lisbon to Senegal. As pointed out earlier, the journey is the bones, and this trip was starting out with rickets! The flight from London to Lisbon is delayed …
We are offered (after much chat about the current state of European football) the options of: leave in two days or stay in Lisbon for the weekend and fly on from there. Bugger, let’s go grab a beer. A mini mulling later and it’s decided: we’ll go to Lisbon, and see what’s up, otherwise it’ll be another trip I’ve completely missed (another long story).
We arrive into Lisbon quite late, and head off up to Bairo Alto, the entertainments area. All cobbledy streets, and little boutiques. But when I say head up, I mean UP! After a while of UP Kevin decides it’s too much up, and we have to retire into a small, but seemingly trendy, Argentinean restaurant, where Kev’s tired and weary spindlies can get some un-earned rest. Having recovered enough and filled our bellies I drag Kevin reluctantly upwards again to sample some of the heady atmosphere of Lisbon buzzing on a Friday night. Within an hour we’re back at the hotel, ready for bed (Gawd, we’re not that old!).
Saturday – March 20
Saturday morning/afternoon-ish - more or less so andwell after sunrise and before sunset. We get up, shower, and head down for the stingiest breakfast offering I’ve ever seen (small enough to fit between an earwig’s toes), and step out into bright bright sunshine. Aah, feel of warm sunshine on pasty white skin, is there a better feeling … well yes there is, breakfast!
And there’s a worse feeling too - well for Kevin there is, as he’s ripped off silly by all the mad old fellas selling absolute rubbish to anyone who looks like a tourist. The basic requirement: looking like it’s your first venture outdoors into sunshine since your birth. I manage to avoid the rip offs, but not the tourist look. I must say, I’m impressed by the way my skin actually reflects the bright sunlight straight back into my eyes, causing many moments of panic, as I’m temporarily blinded by merely looking at my legs! Anyway, the day is spent meandering wistfully around the Lisbon back streets, and it turns out to be a very pleasant experience of old world charm, strong coffee, and fat bottomed girls … On our meanderings we stumble upon a small and much hidden sign in a knee high window – Bob Rasta, Reggae club, Saturday night … Well we didn’t intend to come here and skank the night away, but we’re both reggae freaks, and what the hell. Only one problem, where in bloody Lisbon are we? This is a case of severe step retracing. All we’ve got to do is remember … hmmmm, Kev, what was that thing I had to remember? What? That thing I had to remember? What thing? I don’t know I can’t remember??????
Having got Lisbon suitably meandered, we head back for the three s’s and have a traditional Portuguese slap up binge at Senora Miggins Loja Torta (pie shop)! OK, 8.30pm, now we’ve got to go find the bloody reggae club … 9pm, hmmm was it down there? 9.30pm or was it down here? 10pm, or was it over there? Aaaaaaahhhhhh, there you are you little hide in the bloody corner reggae club. And look - it’s Bob Rasta himself propping up the door whilst his newly cleaned floor dries. Bob is a Rasta without dreads, Mr Laid Back, but he won’t let us in, his floor’s wet, and he cadges a fag! We have returned at 11, ok, ok no probs, we’ll crash in a bar until it’s time … The next thing that flickers into my memory the following morning, is fleeting visions of a 7 foot Senegalese basketball player. Plenty (nay, profuse) beers, a bit o’ the Rastafarian herb, and overflowing sewage cascading down the steps in the middle of the club. Well if you can’t remember it, it must’ve been a good night!
Sunday – March 21
Now the next day, well what about it? Gawd knows mate, it existed, but not in real time, not like real life! Nahhhhhh, couldn’t have done? Well that was the day you flew to Senegal! It was? It was!
Aaaaaaah, now where was I? The day that almost didn’t exist, the day that perfectly imitated the hangover scene from Up Pompeii. The less said the better! Suffice it to say, that night we flew on to Senegal, and arrived in at some ridiculous hour of the morning!
Monday – March 22
Whoosh, hot air pours into the aircraft as the doors are opened. Whoo hoo we’re here, its dark, Bourneville dark, and we are shuffled onto a bus and out through immigration. Every one else on the plane is being herded towards waiting transport. We are alone, so up with the back packs, and out through the “Welcome to Dacca” arch. Whuuummffffff! We are instantly surrounded by dozens of chittering, chattering, wide-starey eyed blokes, all dressed up to go out and completely unimpress visiting tourists. It’s like feeding time in the piranha pool. Hands go in there, shouts go up here, push shove, bump, elbow! After a major struggle we pull ourselves free of the madding melee, and stagger outside. Now, in situations like this the wary, experienced traveller would think twice, take old advice and get the most official looking transport, pay what it costs, and get where you’re going - then acclimatise tomorrow. Now, me being an experienced and wary traveller, what do I do? Get in the first taxi (as long as it’s not horse- drawn), gibber some rubbish, forget to ask the price, and pray to whatever god pops into my head at that moment!
Two minutes out of the airport, the rickety string and sellotape taxi takes a sharp right into a dimly lit, and forbidding looking car park. There’s no one around, I look at Kev, he looks at me, I can hear him swallowing. We’ve not been here ten minutes and we’re going to be cruelly macheted to death in this dirty old taxi, and no one will ever find us …
The taxi stops and out steps the driver, together with the tout from the airport, both furiously chatting in Wolof, the national language. We look at each other again before my door is opened and Paco the tout announces in excellent English that we’re changing taxis, from this old jalopy to the other jalopy next to us - the thing creaked just looking at it. I, for one, am just relieved as we climb into the death trap, that my earlier fearswere completely dumfounded. First time in a strange place nerves.
Or were they …
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From the Cote d’Azur to the Manor Born
13. August 2008
Destination Editor
I am rather fond of the Côte d’Azur this time of year.Whilst a little early for all the senses to take in the atmosphere and the mimosa scents to fill the air, you still get the feeling of witnessing this vibrant part of Southern France emerging from its short winter slumber.
On this occasion we were relaxing at the Café de la Place in St Paul de Vence, taking in a pichet of rosé whilst contemplating the options for lunch. As is ever the case, the mobile rang just at the very moment when events were about to get heated - the locals were setting up for a game of boules. As a result of the call, we started to make changes to our plans for our return to London.
“I need you to stay in Blackburn, Lancashire”, the caller said, my response being a predictable: “What?” “Well, to be more precise, I need your presence at Northcote Manor (in the Ribble Valley) and for you to tell me what you think”. I should point out at this stage that the colleague in question is launching a travel website (and I guess I have just joined the editorial department … well, they say you can’t do enough for a good guvnor!). This view prevails when we are informed that the stay is overnight in one of Northcote Manor’s sumptuous rooms, plus Gourmet Dinner and breakfast. We’venever been before - what the heck! So, to business. With the aid of the Via Michelin website (www.viamichelin. co.uk) we plot our route from the suburbs of South London. Well, I thought I might as well give the trip an element of a continental flavour and it’s so much easier than cumbersome maps. Four hours later we find ourselves driving through Clitheroe, a charming town at the heart of the Ribble Valley. Nothing for it but to park, stretch one’ s legs and find a wine bar. I should inform you, at this juncture, that whilst Clitheroe is in an area of exceptional natural beauty,falls into Tolkein country and boasts a superb Norman castle.
It appears somewhat bereft of an alternative to tired country town pubs. Still, we managed to stumble on a place called Maxwells, near the train station, which is at least bright looking and has windows.
The owners must have thought, when decorating and laying out the interior, that this is how trendy wine bars look in major cities across the UK. I have to tell them, in my opinion, they are wrong. However, after an excellent Salade Niçoise, a homemade burger and an equally excellent bottle of J. Morreau’s Chablis, we are soon relaxing into the Clitheroe swing.
Feeling replete and watered, it was time to set off for Northcote Manor, a mere ten minute amble down the road. 
Now, I don’t know if you are anything like me, but I find that a fair majority of country hotels or manors “with rooms” never really fully deliver the promisetheir publicity generates. Whether it’s the room size and the choice of furniture, the staff (who often look as though they are on a penance for a previous crime) or the combination of food and drink at dinner, the sum of the parts never quite hangs together. I am often left feeling that I’d been better off staying at home, getting a take-away or visiting our favourite restaurant. I can assure you that Northcote Manor is as far away from any of those horrors as we are, now, from Saint Tropez.We found ourselves in room six. A huge bedroom with sufficient sitting area to qualify as a flat in parts of London. The pieces of furniture blended well together and had I room in the car, or the nerve to attempt the feat, I would have happily taken the stand-alone wardrobe home with me under cover of darkness. So much nicer than the bulk of built in furniture that we seem to be so much in love with nowadays. And a whopping bathroom too. This is something many country establishments seem to stint on, which always surprises me given the fact that, apparently, we British love to wallow for hours in a hot tub and contemplate.
Downstairs there were rooms to relax in and feel at home; nobody here to make you feel anything other than a welcome friend having just made a return trip from places far away. With no more driving, the wine list seemed to be the obvious place to look for a pre-dinner tincture. Four hundred or so bins, but easy to navigate, this is list to while away the hours. There is no part of the wine-making globe ignored; that said we settled for a half bottle of Pouilly-Fumé, Domaine des Bertiers - absolutely stunning.
Now, if there is one ingredient guaranteed to mark out the ruck of also ran country hotels from the winners, it has to be the food. The Gourmet Menu at The Northcote Manor, just one of the options available, was our selection for the evening. If I have one minor niggle it is that the whole table has to participate. So, I couldn’t sneak a taste of something different from my partner’s plate.We commenced with a half bottle of Magenta Brut Champagne to accompany the amuse bouches - small tartlets with a crisp base, a slice of black pudding and a souffled topping; another a small bruschetta topped with tomato and sheep’s cheese.
This was followed by Tortellini of Crab and Scallop, the individual flavours all held together within a foam of yellow beetroot. A palette refresher came in the form of Pea and Garden Mint Soup, which set up the main course brilliantly: sublime Saddle of New Season’ s Bowland Lamb, Basil Mash and Purple Sprouting Broccoli - so tender and tasteful, it just melted in the mouth.
By this time we felt pleasantly replete, without the feeling of nausea often associated with a meal of as many courses. Dessert took the form of a very thin and crispy Bramley Apple Tart, accompanied by Quince Ice Cream –a much underrated fruit in my book.
Another one of the beauties of dining at Northcote Manor is that it is an experience they want you to enjoy over time. There is never a feeling of being hurried, or that the maitre d’ wants to turn the table. Oh, I nearly forgot –the whole eating experience was rounded off with a superb bottle of Puligny- Montrachet 1er Cru Les Charmes and at an incredibly non-wallet busting price. At the end of an incredibly leisurely evening, we retire to our “London Flat- Room” and avail our selves of just one of the games Northcote Manor provides in your room for your amusement–Scrabble! However, given the number of TV channels available for viewing, youare never going to be bored here.
Breakfast for me has never been a main event. Give me coffee, and I mean good coffee, and a broadsheet newspaper and I’m as happy as Larry. However, on this occasion, I must admit to having been tempted from the path of righteousness. For me, it took the form of naturally smoked Finnan Haddock and free-range poached hen’s egg (from Northcote Manor’s own hens, of course!). My other half spied the Mrs Kirkham’s Melting Lancashire Cheese Soufflé, served with roasted tomatoes–unusual to see an establishment going the extra mile and offering far more than just the run of the mill breakfast choices. Moreover, the soufflé says that a chef is in the kitchen during the breakfast run - not (always) a common occurrence.
Breakfast over and thoroughly enjoyed, it was time to take our leave.Not before, however, we stroll around and admire the exquisite herb garden that provides many of the ingredients for the kitchen, as well as its plants and flowers for Northcote Manor itself.
If you go nowhere else in the UK for a weekend getaway I implore you to take a well-earned break at Northcote Manor. I can recommend room six, but leave the stand-alone wardrobe for my next visit - please.
Now we are off on a whistle-stop drive through some of the beautiful villages that straddle the route to our final destination. We are heading for The Inn at Whitewell for a balanced (alternative?) view on life … so my colleague tells me.
First through Waddington, where a calm river, much beloved by ducks, bisects the village. It was here that King Henry V1 was betrayed before meeting a sticky end in the Tower. Then onto Bolton-by-Bowland, packed with delightful cottages and ancient lanes - a walker’s paradise. Finally, we pass through Slaidburn, where the River Hodder offers lazy summer day picnics on the sides of the bank. You can also amble along its quiet streets that unravel hidden charms, as well as the 13th Century Bounty Inn that once served as a courthouse to travelling judges.
Now, the Inn at Whitewell is a sprawling venue beside a river withy, glorious hills rising to one side and a dense wood to another. On the outside are all the plaques, from restaurantguides and organisations that suggest a hostelry of charm. However, I have to warn you, it is quirky. It even implies the same from its website. I guess that’s what comes from being an owner whose ancestors are descendents from archers at the battle of Agincourt! The bar was busy with people enjoying the food and drink and with waitresses buzzing around. However, no one seemed to be interested in us as we wandered around trying to locate someone who could direct us to our table. Luck finally struck us, although we found ourselves in a rather tired looking room with a view across the rolling hills to the Trough of Bowland. From here you had to place your order at the bar - in another room. So, up again. Given the number of staff moving plates around it all seemed a tad illogical, so I guess we’ll call that quirky.
The bright spot was the food and, again, an excellent wine list. We settled for Chicken Liver Pâté Ballmaloe, Potted Prawns and Fish and Chips with Mushy Peas for two. But why is it that mushy peas always seem to take on the colour green that I associate with a badly tuned colour television set? To accompany the meal and end the weekend’s extravagance we decided there was only one way for it. Join in the quirkiness. To wash down the lunch, a bottle of Winston’s favourite: Pol RogerSilver Foil Champagne, which of course we had to open ourselves!
NORTHCOTE MANOR HOTEL
Northcote Manor
Northcote Road, Langho, Blackburn,
Lancs
BB6 8BE
Tel: 01254 240555 Fax: 01254 246568
maureen@northcotemanor.com
http://www.northcotemanor.com
THE INN AT WHITEWELL
Forest of Bowland
Near Clitheroe
BB7 3AT
Tel: (01200) 448222
Fax: (01200) 448298
http://www.greatinns.co.uk/inns/whitewell.html
CLITHEROE TOURIST
INFORMATION
Tel. 01200 425566
www.ribblevalley.gov.uk
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Discovery Cove- Swimming with Dolphins
13. August 2008
Destination Editor
Discovery Cove, the tropical paradise in Orlando, where guests have the opportunity to swim with Atlantic bottle-nose dolphins, celebrated its eighth anniversary during the summer of 2008. Discovery Cove is a welcome retreat away from the frenetic pace of any action-packed Orlando holiday. It achieves this by limiting the number of guests to only 1,000 people per day. This enables Discovery Cove to offer an exclusive and personal experience to all their guests.
Discovery Cove now has over 30 dolphins and they have had eight successful dolphin births during the past five years. They are also extremely successful in raising young stingrays– 
with more than 60 southern rays and 47 cownosed rays being born in the coral reef and the lagoon since the park opened.
In addition, over the last eight years, the “free flight” aviary has been expanded and now offers a 100 foot long enclosure which is home to 250 tropical birds spanning 30 species.
This enables visitors to mingle with the birds, talk to them, touch them and even feed them. To create
further the feeling of privacy, Discovery Cove have introduced private cabanas on the beach to enable families to have a special place to spend the day when they are not exploring the park. For those who want to get even closer to the animals, Discovery Cove has intoduced exclusive packages, such as: Traner For A Day programmes.
Trainer For A Day
This is a must for all animal lovers. The Trainer For A Day programme allows visitiors to go behind the scenes at the parks and learn about working with marine mammals and birds. This full day package includes an enhanced dolphin encounter and trainingasession,behind the scenes feeding at the coral reef (including nurse sharks), care of exotic birds,small mammal training sessions, animal food preparation and an animal behavioural training class.
The story of the Dolphins
One day a girl called India Rose Loudon-Tarry went on holiday to America for two weeks. With her family brother Aston , Mum, Dad Grandma and Grandad. The second week she went to Discovery cove two swim with some Dolphins and she had to where a lifejacket that was hard to put on. We then had to go down to the water where the dolphins would take us for a ride the water was very cold and the dolphins went very fast.
The lady trainer taught us how to kiss a dolphin the dolphins teeth are very sharp but its lips and skin are sandy but smooth we saw a baby dolphin called Rug the one that I kissed was called Thelma.
Thelma did some tricks a length of a ruler away from me and splashed us all with her tail when she was playing. The lady fed Thelma some dead smelly fish and then we swam out to the dolphin and the lady told me to hold the top fin and brought us back felt funny like a speed boat all watery and draggy we then got off the dolphin and came out the water and got dry. When we were all dry Aston my brother took his underpants off and went on the hammock with me and then two ladies went past and told him to get his underpants on my Grandma and Grandad laughed. The best thing about the day was kissing the Dolphin and floating down the river, the second time Aston would not go The important bit is you have to where sun cream.
BY INDIA LOUDON-TARRY Age 7
Trainer For A Day. Prices start at £224 per person plus tax and participants must be over six years of age and a paying adult must accompany under-13s.
All ticket prices stated above include seven consecutive days entrance to either Busch Gardens, Tampa Bay or Seaworld Orlando. For further information on Discovery Cove, please visit www.floridaparks.co.uk
For information on Virgin Holidays’
Florida program to include the above activities, please
visit www.virgin.com/holidays
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Short on Time, Need a break?
13. August 2008
Destination Editor
How about a promenade along the digue “à la français”? Sit and watch the kite surfers enjoy the waves or dive into the “Quirky Bar” for a glass or two of much needed refreshment.
I am continually told that one of the major pluses for London living is the abundance of good restaurants and bars, the vast open parks dotted throughout the capital, not to mention the theatres and museums that I am able to enjoy.
If you are anything like me: bars and restaurants aside, the other opportunities tend to be left to another day. A criminal event I hear you say! I, on the other hand, often wish to explore the countryside with its clean air. View the stars at night, explore walks between villages and visit brassieres that don’t form part of a ubiquitous chain: the restaurant chains that are so prevalent now in London today. Sadly, my ideal - and I believe that of many of us - is a fast disappearing feature in this city of mine, let alone the rest of the country.
So, where to start?
I think we should look slightly further a field and enjoy one of the other major benefits of London living that may have temporarily escaped your notice: a short hop across the Channel. No, I am not referring to a day’s shopping run, although the benefits are endless. Why not make a weekend of enjoyment and indulge yourself in a visit that will offer changing scenery between coastline, countryside, villagesand towns. Individual shops offering an interesting range of produce to tempt you and an abundance of brassieres or small auberges in which to relax and pass the time of day away. Oh, and should you want to, there are numerous museums, exhibitions and events related to local customs that will happily satisfy the most inquisitive of us all.
I suppose you are either a ferry or tunnel person. For my sins I prefer the sea route.There’s nothing, in my mind, nicer than a stroll around the deck to take in the aroma of an adventure. Catch up on the last of the daily papers, before practising your French, enjoy a superb meal on board, or perhaps take in a glass or two of champagne.
Compare all of this to the alternative of being cooped up in a large cigar tube and being catapulted through a darkened tunnel – there’s surely no discussion.Our destination? Not, I hasten to add, the quick “à droit” that deposits you into Cité Europe the “Franglais” equivalent of “Bluewater”. This is a weekend to rejuvenate the soul. Take the Cote d’ Opal Route, a coastal drive, and head for the seaside town of Wimereux some 8 km north of Boulogne. Here you can indulge in the romance of a time once captured by the Impressionists, whilst enjoying some of life’s essentials.
First stop, a place to stay.
You can, if you are so inclined, enjoy the splendour of Liégeoise et Atlantic Hotel: a Michelin three fork establishment facing the sea. However, if you prefer something more personal and intimate then I have a secret to share with you. La Goëlette (www.lagoelette.com) A charming chambres d’hôte on the digue (promenade) owned and run by Marie Avot, who has luxuriously renovated the property in keeping with the 1930’s period. The best rooms look out onto the sea, allowing you to open your windows day or night and take in the fresh smell of the sea, or the sound of waves crashing against the beach. In the morning Mary’s sitting room is used for breakfast. Enjoy fresh croissants, cheese, ham, a range of breads and preserves, orange juice and piping hot coffee, whilst leisurely planning the day’s activities or quietly watching the beachcombers and early morning swimmers.
Shops with a difference
Wimereux is one of those towns that never fails to delight the keen food shopper. There’s a lovely fromagerie selling an interesting selection of olive oils, complementary wines and, yes you’ve guessed, an eclectic range of cheeses. Heart shaped Neufchatel,Chavignol and Vacherin to name but three of my favourites. Time for a drink, do I hear you say? Le Café de La Mairie is my favourite spot. Full of locals and the ideal place to stop, take stock and perhaps enjoy a snack of Marmite de Moules and a bottle of Côte de Ventoux and receive change from 15 Euros! Alternatively, there is an interesting bar opposite the Hotel du Centre, which as it happens is a great place to eat. It’s called Avant les Bains – I’ve renamed it the “Quirky Bar”. The sort of place you’d like to lounge in, whatever part of France you visit. Great wines by the glass or bottle and an interesting and diverse array of differing types of chairs to sit in!
Now, where to visit nearby?
The list is endless. However, if you have only one full day to satisfy your thirst for knowledge I can recommend the following. La Coupole, some 5 km from Saint Omer, is where Hitler constructed the largest ever built V2 rocket launch pad. The gigantic bunker, built into the chalk face, is still there to this day and acts as a museum to German occupation and the development of the Reich’s secret weapons. If you feel the need to delve further back into history you’ll probably enjoy Azincourt. This is the historical site of the famous battle of 1415 where the English defeated the French, courtesy of our long bowmen. On the battlefield it is possible to recognize tracks along which the English archers would have been supplied with arrows, whilst a new museum offers the latest in video, laser and interactive presentations to capture the enormity of the event.
After all this activity –
a spot of lunch!
I have three recommendations: all of which skirt the area taking you through some interesting villages, meandering roads whilst catering for differing moods.
Le Clé des Champs, in Favières - 61km south of Boulogne
Out in the middle of nowhere yet surrounded by French car registrations, always a sure sign of somewhere worthy of investigation. The menus range from 18 Euros to 30 Euros, offering a wide choice of seasonal ingredients, fresh fish and succulent lamb from the salt marshes of the Somme. Presentation takes the form of waiters with domed topped salvers: be prepared, you may be here for some time. A Carte du Vin that offers a coupe de Champagne (Bollinger, no less) at 8 Euros and a Macon Rouge at 12 Euros a bottle has to reckoned with in my book.
Auberge du Moulin, Audenfort
Take the D224 towards Liques, then the D217 and you will find this mill restaurant signposted on your right. The mill waters still run through the building giving an additional point of interest. The food is absolutely excellent – cooked to order, at prices that are absolutely unbelieveable. Don’t bother to order off the wine list, just ask for a pichet of red, white or rose; it’s incredible value at around 7 Euros.
Chez Mimi, near Audresselles
A recommendation from Mary at La Goëlette. Offered as being simple, honest fish cooking. Fruits de mer, turbot, moules and frit or their absolutely delicious Crab a la Doris: a hot crab with cheese topping. All of this coupled with a short, but ridiculously cheap, Carte de Vin means you’ll leave this establishment fully replete having spent little more than 15 Euros each.
Blowing away the cobwebs
Be honest, when was the last time you took in such wondrous views? The two capes: Capes Blanc-Nez and the much taller Cap Gris-Nez perfectly mirror the Kent Cliffs with views across the Channel. You can walk from just outside Wimereux to Cap Gris-Nez then along to Wissant. This route takes in the beach for most of the way or the coastal path over dunes, grassy cliffs and the remains of German blockhouses. There is more walking, of a sort, later, but that takes in some different views inland high up amongst the ramparts.
Montreuil-sur Mer
I have often said that if everything went “pear-shaped” I could happily squander my time here. I love the square with its eclectic spread of hardware stores, bars and restaurants overseen by the statue of Sir Douglas Haig, who established his HQ here during World War 1. Behind are the cobbled streets and what remains of the timbered houses built during the 16th century. The ramparts, encircling the town, can be walked in about 40 minutes and afford fabulous views towards the valley of the Canche, Le Touquet, and the old monastery of Notres Dame des Duprés. You can now consider your soul rejuvenated … so, something to replenish ourselves after the stroll? At one time or another I think I have tried just about every restaurant and bar that forms this delightful enclave. Some fit the summer more than wintertime, so my selection reflects the fact that you may be travelling during the sunnier months.
Le Cocquempot, 2 Place de la Poissonerie
A sort of grand dining room, recently redecorated yet still faded at the edges, but don’t let that put you off. Excellent food: chicken in the pot, just about every way you could imagine, garlicky lamb noisettes or cod en papillote. Follow this with cheese and or patisserie deserts from a menu at little more than 29 Euros each. As ever, the Carte du Vin is a wonder to behold, both in terms of choice and the corresponding cost.
Auberge de la Grenouillère, La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil
Okay, so you have taken in the sights and gained some intellectual stimulus. You’ve exercised yourself to virtual extinction; having walked both the coastal path and the ramparts and you have dined out at a fraction of what the equivalent would be (if you could find it) in London. Time to fill up with alcoholic contraband later … I’ll have some ideas! For now you need to indulge yourself on another level. The Froggery is somewhere I need no excuse to take myself of to at anytime of the year and neither, I suspect, will you. The dining room is cosiness and warmth personified. The service and place settings befit the Michelin two knives-and-forks restaurant status. There are three menus to choose from, however I invariably plumb for the midprice offering at around 40 Euros and allow myself a little more leeway with the Carte du Vin. Space does not permit me to eulogise about the courses suffice to say you will not be disappointed at whatever level you enter.
Some thoughts on where to purchase your contraband!
Having started my off-shore wine purchasing many years ago in the Auchan Hypermarchés, I now tend to favour smaller outlets. These allow me to discover parcels of wine not common to the more favoured operations beloved by the English. My favourite is this one. Le Chais: Bréquerque Village, 49,rue des Deux Ponts (underneath the arches of Boulogne railway station). I just love this cave. Some absolute bargains in every department. House champagne comes in at around 11 Euros, with Bollinger at a staggeringly low 20 Euros. Do make sure you make contact with the “old boy” , resplendent in his grey apron. He will happily introduce you to a wide range of red or white wines, from throughout France, for your degustation. Indeed, what I find pleasing is that he will happily point you in the direction of wines offering better value than you probably chose yourself!
Ah, the return to Calais.
Whilst our little trip has attempted to take you via a, vaguely, circular route you may find that some of the Boulogne attractions are better encountered at the beginning rather than on the journey homeward. The open-air food market in Place Dalton on Wednesday and Saturday mornings is well worth a stroll round. I must admit I found the Nausicaa (www.nausicaa.fr) experience fascinating. There are all kinds of fish and sea creatures from around the world together with a wealth of ecological information about the sea’s environment presented through dynamic multimedia displays in differing languages. You’ll also find a tank that lets you (and of course the children!) touch rays or skate whilst they are in the water… very therapeutic. A leisurely return to your port or tunnel connection and the jaunt home begins.Welcome back to: queues, the ubiquitous fast food operation, exorbitant prices, unbelievable stress and the High Street chains. Don’t you just love it here?
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